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Free shipping in the US on all orders $50+
You can contact us via email or via the chat feature on the lower right section of your screen. Due to limited resources and our desire to respond more quickly to inquiries we no longer take phone calls. We are a small team and are working as fast as we can to respond to your email and chat inquiries.
Email: support@thaliacapos.com
If your issue is time sensitive, please be sure to put "URGENT" in the subject line and we will reply as soon as possible.
If you are having issues with fret buzz or getting a crystal clear tone, then something is wrong... Here is a Troubleshooting Guide that will help you self diagnose and solve 99% of all problems.
If the rubber piece that protects the neck of your guitar falls off, you can easily repair this. We have replacement pinchpad kits that include super glue and a replacement rubber piece that you can order from the page below:
Your can order this replacement part here
Or you can repair it yourself using some crazy glue and these instructions:
If your guitar is not listed in our fretboard radius database, then we recommend taking the following steps, it will just take a few minutes to find the right one:
Step 1: Check the manufacturer's website to see if they have it listed. Quite often guitar manufacturers will list the fretboard radiuses they use on their website so it never hurts to check with them first since their specifications will likely be most accurate.
Step 2: Try our manual method for determining the best insert. Start with the 12" fretpad that is preinstalled on your capo... Place it on your guitar on the 1st fret and see if you get buzzing on any strings. If it sounds great with no buzzing then you are done, your guitar has a 12" radius. But if you get buzzing on the low E string, then your guitar likely has a fretboard radius that is smaller than 12"; so change to the 10" fretpad and test again. If there is still buzzing on the low E then drop it down again to the 9.5" and continue using this method until you find the one that works best.
If on the other hand, you are get buzzing on the D or G strings, then your guitar likely has a fretboard radius that is larger than 12"; so swap out the insert for the 15" and test again. If there is still buzzing on the D or G, then increase the radius to the 16" or to the C(flat) and try again until you find the one that works best.
Step 3: If you’ve found the best fretpad size for your guitar and it’s not listed on our fretboard radius database or is different than what we recommend then please contact us at support@thaliacapos.com so we can add it!
If you’re using our recommended fretpad but are noticing buzzing or muffled strings, then we suggest following the steps below.
Step 1: Make sure your fretpad matches the fretboard radius of your guitar. Sometimes guitar manufacturers will have models with fretboard radiuses that are different from what they normally use. If you searched online and couldn’t find any specifications for your guitar’s fretboard radius then you can try our manual method for determining the best fretpad to use.
Step 2: Install one of our high-tension fretpads. If you’re using one of our Standard-Tension fretpads with a matching radius for your guitar’s fretboard but are still experiencing buzzing, then your guitar likely needs one of our high-tension fretpads. These fretpads were designed to be used for guitars with octave strings, compound radius fretboards, banjos, mandolins, and any guitar that has a low profile or thinner than average neck
Step 3: Make sure your guitar is setup correctly and it’s neck profile or shape is not causing the problem. Variables like nut height, action, string gauge, and fret height can all factor into how much tension our capos are able to provide for your guitar. If you’ve had the guitar professionally setup and are using one of our high-tension fretpads but are still experiencing buzzing issues then please contact us at support@thaliacapos.com and we’ll do everything possible to help you get the capo working with your guitar.
If you’re using our recommended fretpad but are noticing some of your guitar's strings are being pulled sharp, then we suggest following the steps below.
Step 1: Make sure your fretpad matches the fretboard radius of your guitar. Sometimes guitar manufacturers will have models with fretboard radiuses that are different from what they normally use. If you searched online and couldn’t find any specifications for your guitar’s fretboard radius then you can try our manual method for determining the best fretpad to use.
Step 2: Make sure you’re NOT using one of our high-tension fretpads. Our high-tension fretpads were designed to be used for guitars with octave strings, compound radius fretboards, banjos, mandolins, and any guitar that has a low profile or thinner than average neck. If your guitar does not have octave strings or a thinner than average neck then these fretpads will probably provide too much tension.
Step 3: Make sure your guitar is setup correctly and it’s neck profile or shape is not causing the problem. Variables like nut height, action, string gauge, and fret height can all factor into how much tension our capos are able to provide for your guitar. If you’ve had the guitar professionally setup and are using one of our standard-tension fretpads but are still experiencing tuning issues, then it’s possible that the guitar’s neck shape/profile is thicker than average. If this seems to be the case then please contact us at support@thaliacapos.com and we’ll do everything possible to help you get the capo working with your guitar.
If this happens, it is very likely that your guitar has a compound radius fretboard, this means that the fretboard flattens out the further up the neck you go. You will need our XL rubber fretpads if you want a capo that works up and down the neck. In the meantime, if you frequently only capo on certain frets such as just on 1 and 2, you can use this method to find the fretpad that works best for that position:
Step 1: Place the capo on the desired fret and play each string. If you get buzzing on the low E string, then change the fretpad to a smaller number. If there is still buzzing on the low E then drop it down again and continue using this method until you find the one that works best.
If on the other hand, you are get buzzing on the D or G strings, then swap out the insert for the next bigger number and test again. If there is still buzzing on the D or G, then increase the radius again until you find the one that works best.
If you still get buzzing on the 1st or 2nd fret but it works great on upper frets, then you will need to use our high tension fretpads. Certain guitars do require more tension than others, including guitars with thinner than average necks, guitars with compound radius fretboards, and 12-string or 8-string guitars with octave strings.
For 12-string & 8-string guitars we recommend the use of our High Tension Rubber Fretpads, which are 2mm taller than the standard tension fretpads. This extra height increases tension to ensure that the octave strings on your guitar are fretted perfectly. Our teflon fretpads will probably not work on a 12-string or 8-string.
Our teflon fretpads are slippery by design. You can either switch to the rubber fretpads which are very secure and will not move. Or if you like the tone and slide properties of the teflon pads, then maybe you are just placing the capo too close to the fret...
Most guitarists are conditioned to place the capo as close to the fret as possible to avoid tuning issues. In fact, this is a best practice if you are using any other capo on the market... However, the Thalia Capo is different. Since the Thalia Capo has fretpads that match the fretboard radius of your guitar, it does not need to be placed that close to the fret to have perfect intonation. In fact, I often place the capo in middle of the fret or even slightly further back, giving you plenty of room to do B7 and other chords shapes where you might come in contact with the capo. The only exception to this rule is on fret 1, where the tension caused by the proximity to the nut requires you to move it a bit closer than the middle.
